A high-quality shaving brush is a very personal item and typically survives the user. Over the past few days, many readers have written me about their father's or grandfather's shaving brushes, either by sending me a photo or relating a story about how they admired a brush growing up and now use it or have it on a shelf. I, too, feel brushes have a soul—how they look, how they lather up, how they treat your face and how they stand at attention hoping to be chosen for your next shave. They develop a personality over time with characteristics and charm. [Photo above of Walter Riva of Riva Brushes, courtesy of Riva Brushes]
To extend the life of a top sharing brush, care is required. When you shave, you shouldn't expose the brush to scalding hot water. You also shouldn't abuse the bristles by hard swirling it in a soap container or in a bowl. Instead, the brush should be moved back and forth, like a paint brush, to load up soap. This technique limits bristle breakage and bristle loss.
When you're finished shaving, rinse the brush thoroughly in luke-warm water. As I rinse the bristles of my brushes, I continually squeeze the base gently to be sure that the water emerging is free of suds. Once I see only water emerging, I hold the brush lightly at the base of its bristles and flick the brush gently a few times to rid the bristles of excess water. Don't do this with the bottom of the handle, since sharp flicking will likely cause brush whiplash and damage the knot.
Next, I take the brush and gently run the head back and forth over a dry towel for about 40 to 50 light strokes, so any stray moisture is wicked off. Then I let it stand to fully dry. Some people like to place it upside down in a stand. Either way works, provided you clear the brush of all soap and loose water.
Speaking of brushes, today I want to introduce you to Walter Riva, one of the world's finest brush makers. He lives and works in Italy, which has a long and noble shaving tradition. After all, you don't see too many Roman statues of guys with beards. And Michelangelo's model for David surely was an advanced shaver. I own several Riva brushes and love them dearly.
For one, they are beautiful to look at and hold. For another, I love Italy, from the food and music to the architecture and fashion. But most important, many of Walter's brushes are one-of-a-kind models. They are stunning, and yours will likely have no duplicate. As you'll see, Walter has a powerful artistic eye and terrific taste, not to mention a warm heart. To shop RIva Brushes, go here and then access the store page at Etsy by scrolling down to the orange button, which will take you here. Etsy is like eBay, except there is no bidding, just buying. I've purchased many shaving items on Etsy and have always had a terrific experience.
Recently, I reached out to Walter by email to learn more about him and his passion:
JazzWax: Walter, where did you grow up?
Walter Riva: I grew up in a small town in northern Italy on the shores of Lake Maggiore, not far from the Swiss border. My love for the area in which I grew up led me to live and locate my workshop just a few kilometers from my childhood town.
JW: What sort of town is it?
WR: It’s a small town where the Ticino River and its woods frame the area and the trees mark the passing of the seasons with their colors.
JW: Were your parents artisans?
WR: My parents were not artisans by profession. My grandfather and his two brothers immediately after World War II were artisans and painted buildings. They also made frescoes on walls. When I was born in 1966, they had already given up their craft. But while growing up, I came across buildings in the area with their works still intact on walls. I remember their landscapes painted outside houses on walls. One of my uncles painted pictures on canvas, too. I inherited one, a landscape. He died young.
JW: Did you study in the arts?
WR: No. My studies were directed towards technical and mechanical subjects. I've always been interested in understanding how things work.
JW: How did you develop an eye for design?
WR: I believe my eye for design comes from my careful observation and passion for nature. Nature has an order and an ability to create perfect and harmonious shapes. It’s quite remarkable, don’t you think?
JW: How did you learn to work with wood?
WR: My passion for woodworking has always been inside of me, in a latent way. My father delighted in making artifacts and small wooden furniture. Seeing him at work when I was growing up inspired me, especially in recent years, to create something that could combine my two passions—my love of nature and my love for traditional shaving.
JW: How many different types of wood do you work with for your brush handles and which woods are they?
WR: Not many types. All are rather uncommon. These include Italian heather briar—the same used for the production of smoking pipes—fossil oak that is 3,000 to 5,000 years old, Sicilian olive wood, briars and some spalted woods.
JW: How do you find your wood—is there a vendor?
WR: Some wood I collect from the forest on our family’s property. Others come from small agricultural entrepreneurs in southern Italy. The fossil woods come from Ukraine and are sent to me with their radiocarbon dating.
JW: How do you cure the wood and sculpt it?
WR: The first long and important phase is the seasoning. Once they are ready, I work the pieces with typical woodworking tools and my lathe.
JW: Were you ever an apprentice to artisans or an engineer?
WR: No, I have never been an apprentice artisan. My inspiration came from nature and designs that look and feel good to me.
JW: How many brushes do you make a year?
WR: The quantity is limited, since my brushes are not a series production—meaning the same models being turned out to meet production numbers. However, the total has grown from 120 pieces last year to a projected 300 pieces this year.
JW: Do you sketch out designs first?
WR: I don't do sketches or drafts. I start with an initial idea, but every single piece of wood I use is different from the others. While I work the wood, it tells me the shape that is best based on its veins, bird's eyes, knots, colors and so on.
JW: Which ones sell best now?
WR: My best sellers are those in Italian heather briar.
JW: Is a horse knot made from horse hair (pictured above)?
WR: Yes. And the horse knots I use are made exclusively with the horse's tail.
JW: Is the bristle stiffer than boar?
WR: No, it’s actually softer than boar, more like boar softened from extensive use.
JW: What would you say sets your brushes apart?
WR: Appearance, attention to detail, uncommon materials and precision, even though they are made from uncommon materials and often joined with pewter or resin.
JW: In addition to the wood and the design, you also take great care to load up the brush so that it’s a plush experience, yes?
WR: Certainly. The sensations users experience during use are very important. Ergonomic shapes and high-level knots are paramount for me. I want users to feel a sizable handle and the wood's texture, and to admire how the brushes look.
JW: Do you shave with one of your own brushes—or do you have a beard and there’s no need?
WR: I shave every day with my brushes, taking the opportunity to try prototypes and come up with ideas for future designs.
JW: What’s the difference between a bulb brush and a fan?
WR: They are very similar. The fan opens more on the face than the bulb, which results in a different feel on the face. A bulb is tighter in shape, with more backbone when soap is applied to the face, creating a scrubbing sensation.
JW: And the difference between Manchurian and silver-tip badger?
WR: Manchurian and silver tip come from different parts of the badger's fur. Silver tip is softer while Manchurian—also known as a “two-band”— offers the stiffest backbone, which is ideal for exfoliation of the skin when using on the face.
JW: What are the pros and cons of synthetic brushes?
WR: The recent synthetic knots perform very well. In my opinion, they are excellent. They are immediately ready for use, whereas natural brushes require a break-in period. However, the luxurious feel of a high-quality badger knot on your face cannot be replicated with synthetic fibers.
JW: What else do you sell in addition to brushes? And are you planning to expand? Or are you happy with the way things are now?
WR: Every now and then I make a few luxury pens, but rarely. I remain focused on shaving brushes, where there is much to explore in design and creation.
JW: What’s your favorite shaving soap and razor now?
WR: One of my favorite shaving soaps now is Taylor of Old Bond Street's Tobacco Leaf (here). It's very earthy. Like you, I have a collection of vintage razors. My two favorites are the stainless steel straight razor J.A. Henckels Friodur Mod.250, produced in 1982. My favorite double-edge razor is the Gillette adjustable Fatboy from 1958.
JW: What is your desire when making brushes, that the buyer has what kind of experience?
WR: My first desire is to earn my customers’ admiration by offering a high-quality product and providing the very best service. My second desire is to help transform shaving from a boring routine to a special, personal moment to repeat with pleasure.
JazzWax shaving album: Today's shaving album is Count Basie's One More Time, with arrangements by Quincy Jones.