A year ago, I posted a five-part series on how to get a close shave. Since then, I’ve been peppered with emails from readers asking a wide range of followup questions on the quality of double-edge razors, blades, brushes, preparing one’s face for a shave, favorite soaps and so on. [Photo above of DR Harris's shop in London]
My double-edge shaving fetish started during the pandemic, though my interest dates back to watching my father shave with a Gillette Fatboy in the 1960s (above). To keep from going mad during the shutdown in New York in 2020, I started shaving each morning with a double-edge razor a friend had given me. That led to research into blades and brushes. My interest and collection has grown over time to include vintage Gillette double-edge razors as well as exploring best brushes and soap. There’s no psychological reason for this passion. I just like turning the mundane into an adventure. I do this with most things, including music.
Since I posted last about shaving, the marketplace demand for new, high-end double-edge razors has increased. All of the manufacturers of these razors tout their razor's aerospace design and technology, the metals used (stainless steel, titanium, etc.) and the machined crafting so the blade meets face at just the right angle. The result, each manufacturer says, is improved efficiency, handling and performance. And a closer shave.
The list of high-end razors on the market now includes Hensen Shaving's AL series and Ti 22; Blackland Razors' Blackbird, Tradere and Osprey; and Tatara Razors' Masamune. I would probably include Muhle Shaving's R95 Rocca, even though the three manufacturers I previously named would probably scream that the Muhle isn't machined or as carefully crafted. Maybe not, but it's still a favorite higher-end razor. [Photo above of the Tatara Masamune]
Most recently, I’ve been enjoying the black Tatara Masamune that I purchased some weeks back. Made in Portugal by three close friends, the Masamune is wonderfully designed and crafted, and handles beautifully. It feels comfortable in the hand, cuts close and is forgiving, with zero cuts or nicks. It's like driving a great car or eating at a fine restaurant. You know immediately that you're experiencing a step up. [Photo above of the Masamune dark razor]
I love the razor so much I decided to find out a little more about the trio behind the product. I spoke with Luís Oliveira, the company's product-design specialist:
JazzWax: How do the three of you know each other?
Luís Oliveira: André, João and I met in college in 2008. All three of us were studying mechanical engineering at Porto University in Porto, Portugal. As you know, in college you meet your friends for life. We were part of a larger group of friends who, apart from our sleeping hours, were always together, either attending classes, studying, having dinner or partying. After graduation in 2013, all of us remained in Porto and continued getting together almost every day. [Photo above, from left, of Tatara's André, Luís and João]
JW: Were you already all experienced shavers?
LO: Actually all of us shaved differently in college. I used an electric razor, João used disposable razors and André used cartridge razors. André was the first to realize he was spending too much on cartridges and started to look for cheaper alternatives. He recalled his grandfather using a safety razor, so he asked him to teach him how to use it. Later, he convinced us that wet shaving—meaning shaves that require a wet brush and soap—was way better and more interesting than what we were doing. We decided to give it a try and found we loved it.
JW: What made you think the world needs a new and more expensive razor?
LO: After graduation, the three of us started working for different companies. We still met once or twice a week to discuss ideas and how we could turn them into a business. Those were the days when we also met regularly with our good friends to talk about things that were going on in our lives, including entrepreneurial ideas. One of those we floated was making a better safety razor.
JW: Right, but what problem existed in the marketplace, besides the cost of cartridges?
LO: Most safety razors on the market used an old-fashioned design, since there hadn’t been much design innovation since the cartridge razor began to dominate in the 1970s. We wanted to improve upon what already existed in vintage models so shaving would be a better, more enjoyable experience. We also felt that many of the newer double-edge razor models out there were of relatively low quality. Not enough engineering attention was paid to how the blade was exposed and its angle.
JW: What did you do?
LO: Since the three of us were skilled in design and manufacturing, we started to develop a new model that later became the Masamune. We made some innovations to the blade-clamping mechanism and we hired a product designer to make the razor look good. After some months, we had something special.
JW: How did you go about this?
LO: Before we started the company, we needed to know more about what we didn't know. In 2016, there was this cool program called “School of Startups.” We wanted to take the course, but to be accepted, we had to submit an idea that the program's jury could evaluate. We submitted our safety-razor project, with the goal of creating a business that transformed a dull obligation—daily shaving—into a pleasurable ritual. Our motto was “From routine to passion.”
JW: How was the course?
LO: We learned a lot about business, marketing and pricing. We also were mentored by other startups, which gave us the confidence to move forward and launch our own shaving products. The Japanese-sounding name comes from our respect for Nipponese [or Japanese] craftsmanship and quality in manufacturing. Moreover, Japan's minimalist aesthetic and style were perfect for a high-end brand.
JW: What did you notice about the market?
LO: We noticed that the wet shaving market was outdated. There was so much room for innovation to make a product that was more appealing to those who liked to shave with a double-edge razor. Our goal was to make a razor that delivered the best shaving experiences in the most sustainable way possible. We also believe that wet shaving is better for your skin, for your wallet and for the environment. The double-edge Masamune razor was our launch product, which led to other products such as an adjustable razor and brushes. All contribute to making shaving a much more enjoyable experience.
JW: How long did it take to arrive at the right design and weight of the Masamune razor?
LO: When designing our first razor, we were able to persuade a CNC [computerized numerical control] manufacturer to produce some prototypes for us and allow us to pay for them later, once we got started. Their generosity was massively beneficial for us.
JW: How so?
LO: It allowed us to send those prototypes to wet-shaving enthusiasts with many more years of experience than we had so they could evaluate them in real time. It also left us with enough cash to make tweaks until we arrived at a consensus among our test panel of users. When they all had the same positive reaction, we knew we had perfected the product that would win over wet shavers.
JW: What was the next step?
LO: We manufactured a small batch of razors with the final design and told blogs and social media groups about it. The batch sold out overnight at its price point. This told us we could build on our initial success.
JW: So what’s your personal pre-shave face prep?
LO: All three of us use the same steps. We first take a hot shower, which softens the skin. Then we use a brush and bowl with hot water at the mirror to lather up before using our razor. André and I use our Finest Badger brush (above). We love the smoothness and rich lather it provides. João likes the Premium Boar because it does a better job of exfoliating the skin while lathering up.
JW: What is the preferred blade?
LO: Until now, we've been recommending the Feather New Hi-Stainless Blades in the yellow, black and red packaging (above). The Masamune is a very smooth razor, so people can use a sharper blade more confidently, without fear of nicks.
JW: What’s coming?
LO: We are about to release our own branded blades. We developed them with a European Union manufacturer. They are on the sharper side, but not as sharp as Feather blades, which some people find too sharp. Ours are also very durable.
JW: What else?
LO: We are developing an adjustable shaving brush that is going to be the world’s first. We've noticed that facial skin and hair are different from day to day. So the brush that may be ideal for you today may not be ideal for tomorrow's shave. For example, you may need a bigger brush one day with more lather and a different type of bristle and stiffness for the next day's shave to exfoliate dead skin. Our new brush will tackle these problems. We also are developing a single-edge razor that will be unique in the marketplace. [Photo above, from left, of Tatara's André, Luís, and João in Porto, Portugal]
JW: And?
LO: That’s all I can say about it right now.
